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Apley
hall; that sleeping gothic pile on the banks of the Severn was the
inspiration behind P.G.Wodehouse's famous Blanding’s Castle. Wodehouse
stayed briefly at the hall, and its many gothic pinnacles, lancet
windows and castellation made it the ideal inspiration for his comic
duo Jeeves and Wooster. However larger then life real heroes’
extraverts and villains have resided at Apley and their ghosts remain.
Evelyn
Waugh once described Blanding's as "…………that original garden from which
we are all exiled,"………… "All those who know them long to return"
Thomas
Whitmore, whose family had held the estate since 1572, had the house
remodelled to the gothic taste apparently in 1811. Whitmore was an
iron-founder and had prospered by producing cannon and arms for the
navy during the Napoleonic wars. His foundry was up river at
Coalbrookdale and his works down stream at fort Pendleston Bridgnorth
so from the towers of Apley he could watch his cargo production-line as
it progressed along the Severn towards its final destination in
Bristol. At the time of its realisation Apley was the height of
frolicsome regency taste and folly. A cousin of Strawberry Hill gothick
romanticism; the architectural design is attributed to the Wyatt family
and the fine Grinshall-stone ashlar-work porte-cochere and polygonal
turrets the work of the Carline brothers, master masons of Shrewsbury.
Records are scant in detail about the construction 0f the hall and at
that time there was an embargo on building due to the threat of
invasion from Napoleon’s Grande Armee so it’s perhaps not surprising to
find that the house is suddenly owned up to after his trouncing at
Trafalgar!
Apley is set in magnificent parkland landscaped
by William Webb of Armitage using an army of navvies who hitherto had
been engaged in building Staffordshire’s canal network. They set about
manipulating the rolling Shropshire hillsides to emulate a perfect
English country landscape painting of the day. The effect is stunning;
a study in harmony perspective and peace.
Evidence of the
pre 1811 house still exists although cleverly disguised by a facade
emulating a gothic chapel with ornate tracery no doubt intended to give
a false impression of piety to the world (a more modest chapel was
located by the library). The interiors of the folly are deceivingly
domestic and secular. Georgian in style and proportion there is an
ornate staircase with a shallow rise and four spindles per tread; rooms
are adorned with earlier mouldings and cornices and it’s clear that the
"faux chapel" was the original pre 1811 house.
Far more
ornate are the saloon-library and drawing- room to the main house with
fine ogee-ribbed gothic vaults and plasterwork attributed to itinerant
Italian Stucciotori under the direction of Francesco Bernasconi.
Heavily carved oak doors in the Tudorbethan style compliment the gothic
masterpiece but the breathtaking aspect of Apley is the central
alabaster staircase with cast iron gothic tracery a mastery of
engineering of the time.
The house was sold for what is
believed to be a record amount in 1867 to William Ormes Foster. The
Foster family were also hugely successful iron founders in the
black-country.
The most famous of the Foster family and one
from which the fortune derived was Williams's uncle James Foster,
talented entrepreneur and Member of Parliament for Worcester. In the
early 19th century Fosters Company was on the leading edge of
technology; producing a wide range of products such as blast furnaces
and rolling mill equipment, sugar mills for export to the colonies and
steam locomotives; the most famous of which The 'Stourbridge Lion'
became the first steam locomotive to run on a commercial railway in
Pennsylvania. James Foster’s business empire was undoubtedly successful
but expansionist plans led to fears of overtrading by the companies
bankers, the bank requested him to reduce his overdraft- he is reputed
to have settled his account in full by taking the money to the bank in
small coins loaded into wheelbarrows and insisting it be counted in his
presence.
Inevitably as Victorians the Foster family felt
the need to improve the house though it had been scarcely 60 years
since its regency remodelling. Tastes had changed and the need for a
more ornate garden and Orangery were sought and executed under a design
by E. Milner noteworthy landscape architect of the day. It incorporated
spectacular water features fountains grottoes and cascades gravity fed
by a massive underground tank. In addition Foster’s lavish entertaining
and socialising led to the need for a legion of servants and so service
quarters were bolted on to the back of the house in barrack like
fashion; façaded in roman cement, ruled into faux block-work and
castellated to continue the gothic theme but with little daylight for
the servants and quite inferior quality to Carline brother’s original
masonry work or Wyatt's vision.
W.O. Foster was succeeded
by Major A.W. Foster decorated hero of the Boer and First World War he
had lost his leg in battle. Major foster had a passion for life;
entertaining dancing and exercise [not easy for a man with one leg] the
hall was during his era host to grand balls and social occasions and
during the inter-war period enjoyed something of a renaissance.
Berner’s mother would have been appalled to find the modest-chapel
remodelled and adorned with rich Aubusson tapestries. Games and
billiard rooms were constructed and the crenulated Orangery converted
into a swimming pool designed by the architect A.W .Forsythe. Said to
be the first private pool in the country, finished in sparkling green
terrazzo the pool was witness to Clivdenesque frolics of chic society
but more importantly was Major Foster’s daily source of exercise-
Swimming.
One famously eccentric character born at Apley
was the 14th Baron Berners. Gerald Tyrwhitt. He was William Foster’s
nephew and became a painter composer novelist, and naughty boy writing
several autobiographical works including his memoirs of Apley as a
child and teenager entitled “first childhood”. Prankster and extravert
he took enormous pleasure in teasing his cantankerous Uncle William,
dyed pigeons in vibrant colors using Indian-ink and at one point had a
giraffe as a pet and tea companion. Apparently having heard that if you
throw a dog into water it will learn how to swim, he once threw a dog
from the window on the grounds that if one applies the same logic it
should learn how to fly! Berners did not enjoy a particularly happy
adult life but remembers being happy at Apley and the park as 'an earthly paradise for children'.
After
the Second World War Major Foster continued to live at Apley though in
far less grandeur and with the legion of staff gone; unmarried and
accompanied towards the end by only his nurse and valet he passed away
in 1960 and the house became vacant.
In 1962 none of
Fosters successors felt any great inclination to live in the “Big Dark
house” and so the building was leased to Shropshire Country Council as
a boarding school. It is a shame that during this era much damage was
done to the historic fabric of the building. Rooms were partitioned off
and architectural features typically hacked about to make the building
more suitable as a school with little care for heritage. Nevertheless
many of the pupils enjoyed idyllic school years here to judge by their
reminiscences. Canoeing on the Severn, abseiling from the battlements
and some being chased off Apley park estate by gamekeepers; until
1987due to lack of funding the school closed down and fell empty.
The
house remained empty and boarded up for almost 10 years and fell into
decline- a haven for architectural thieves and lead- fetishists. With
its roof coverings stripped and guttering blocked those two demons of
the underworld Dry-rot and Decay took their hold. Apley Estates found
themselves frustrated by the listed building constraints security
problems and phenomenal costs of upkeep; eventually they sold the house
and grounds to Apleyhall Restoration ltd a company owned by Neil Avery.
Neil is a specialist in conservation and architectural repair; he had
formerly lived close by at his previous project and home Patshull hall
Staffordshire; with his specialized crew of artisan conservators they
began to waken the sleeping beauty ; cutting down the briar roses
opening the shutters to let daylight and fresh air in clearing
overgrowth from the arboretum-gardens [which in 10 years of neglect had
become impenetrable jungle] and making the building watertight.
Fireplaces and other adornments which had been stolen and subsequently
recovered by the police were now refitted in their original positions.
The
house gradually blossomed into life again with great open log fires and
sunlight once again streaming through the gothic tracery. At first
[other than security staff] Neil lived in the vast house alone; a
solitary shadow working late into the night on flood-lit scaffolding
attending to specialist Architectural repairs. His famously fast
whippet Milo accompanied him on early morning walks through the now
cleared gardens of enchantment that had been the sanctuary of so many
famous sons’ daughters and schoolboys of Apley. Before long Neil was
joined by his French lady Marie and her two daughters from Champagne
France and daffodils and crocus’s blossomed beneath towering coastal
redwood trees. During the Avery era many magnificent masked charity
balls were held at the hall and it was once again a family home and
scene of much joy and celebration. Neil recalls magical early mornings
at Apley when the mist rises from the river Severn to surround the hall
reminiscent of Avalon.
Ironically the complex planning laws
which govern listed buildings often serve to obstruct their reuse and
over the years this has certainly been the case at Apley. Neil and
conservation architect Andrew Arrol often burnt the midnight oil
sketching possible designs and alternative uses for the Hall including
Hotel Spa and Residential-subdivision which were patiently tabled with
the district planning department pondering every minute detail of
change. The main limitation being due to the labyrinthine 19th century
bolt-on service wings which give the house a forbidding density; this
precluded the use of the house as modern private home both because of
its size and lack of daylight so for that reason a bold scheme was
conceived to reduce the meandering monolith to Wyatt’s original regency
plan so that it could continue to be used as a family home.
A
successful modern composer fell in love with and agreed to purchase the
hall as a fully restored house from Neil’s company if planning could be
gained based upon one of Andrews detailed designs. This would involve
demolition of the servants’ hall and kitchens and the substitution of a
crenulated gothic façade installed in keeping with the original. The
scheme would have included the use of the stable block as studios the
cellars for sound recording and the house for entertaining and as a
family home. The beauty of this project would be its low intensity and
more original use of the building however two alternative applications
were turned down for planning consent by the district council even
though they did have the backing of the parish council and the Georgian
society who were keen to see the original plan restored. Hotel use was
considered out of the question too so that left sadly only one future
for the hall other than to fall back into ruin –subdivision into
apartments.
Timeless apley may appear but time waits for no
man. Progress continues and the hall is being split into residential
apartments by developers Earlstone under the expert guidance of Mr
Graham Moss conservation architect who has been at great pains in his
designs to minimise the impact of sub-division on the structure, but
sadly those enfilade staterooms will never be able to host grand-balls
of past epic proportions.
Neil and his French family are
currently traveling Europe with a small band of international craftsmen
repairing ruined chateaux and other historic buildings. But have many
pleasant memories of halcyon days and sumptuous soirees at Apley.
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